Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts

Where to Eat in Buenos Aires

Food critic John Mariani leads you to the top tables in this Argentine city.

Apr 11, 2013
  • Hernan Gipponi’s cutting edge cuisine, Buenos Aires
  • The window of Cucina Paradiso, Buenos Aires
  • Elena at Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires
  • The dining room at Cabana Las Lilas, Buenos Aires
  • Oviedo Restaurant in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Hernán Gipponi, Soler 5862, 54-11/3220-6820
Why go: Located in the neighbourhood called “Hollywood” because it draws Buenos Aires’ movie and TV stars, Hernán Gipponi is serving the city’s cutting-edge cuisine. Chef Gipponi doesn’t even list beef on his menu, instead focusing on tasting menus of five to nine courses featuring the cornucopia of Argentine foods, from the first shipment of shrimp from Chubut province to rice from Entre Ríos.
You must try: “Egg at 62 Degrees” with squid, sweet onions and onion ashes
And this: The wine pairings that go impeccably with Gipponi’s cuisine
Photography Jocelyn Mandryk
Cucina Paradiso, Castañeda 1871, 54-11/4780-2409
Why go: In a city with an enormous Italian immigrant population, there are plenty of good, if uninspired Italian restaurants, but this lively, enormously popular trattoria run by Donato De Santis is among the best anywhere. The antipasti are myriad in number—rabbit with tuna sauce, eggplant caponata, and creamy Burrata cheese. The pastas are also sublime, such as the beautifully presented beet-infused risotto.
You must try: The Sardinian pasta called culurzones, stuffed with egg, cheese, potato and sausage
And this: The ricotta cheesecake with pine nuts and mascarpone
Photography courtesy Cucina Paradiso
Elena, Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086/88, 54-11/4321-1200
Why go: This great-looking, two-level, open-kitchen new restaurant is a signal that Four Seasons is tying the local food culture to a casual but chic atmosphere. Everything is made on premises, from the charcuterie and breads to the smoked trout. There are also Italian items on the menu in addition to dry-aged beef, which is a true rarity in Argentina.
You must try: The daily rotisserie special for two
And this: The long list of freshly made gelati and sorbetti
Photography courtesy Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts
Cabaña Las Lilas, AM de Justo 516, 54-11/4313-1336
Why go: Among the throng of restaurants that line the Puerto Madero waterfront, none is more famous or popular than Cabaña Las Lilas, a big, wide-open parrilla serving up huge cuts of grilled beef, sausages, sweetbreads and lamb cutlets.
You must try: The grilled provolone cheese in generous portions
And this: The restaurant’s signature drink: gin, peach pulp and Champagne
Photography courtesy Cabaña Las Lilas
Oviedo, Antonio Beruti 2602, 54-11/4822-5415
Why go: For more than a quarter century, this romantic but down-to-earth restaurant has remained the finest place for seafood in Buenos Aires, with a superb wine cellar and a clientele composed of equal parts local regulars and gourmets visiting the city.
You must try: The grilled fish with pumpkin ravioli and the fish cooked a la plancha
And this: An assortment of appetizers including Spanish ham, grilled shrimp and croquettes filled with melting cheese
Photography courtesy Oviedo Restaurant

As the residents of Buenos Aires (who call themselves Porteños) will be the first to tell you, theirs is a city closest in spirit and aesthetic to the great capitals of Europe, especially Paris, whose grand designer, Georges-Eugène Haussmann, rebuilt both cities.

Broad avenues, glorious fountains and a long strand of beach along the Río de la Plata have made Buenos Aires a highly cultured city with its own South American sway. Beef and grills, called parrillas, dominate the culinary scene, but there are also some new restaurants now breaking the mould.



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