Desert winds blow over the Atlas Mountains to render the Marrakech skies a sizzling cobalt blue, high above the pink-orange adobe walls of winding alleyways and exquisite mansions. Hustlers whisper at corners, exotically spiced food is prepared with love, countless mint teas are sipped and superlative craftwork created. This former imperial capital also boasts the electrifying Jemaa el Fna, a vast square where sights, sounds and aromas peak at night; by day, the labyrinthine souk beckons. As tourism booms, stylish hotels and restaurants multiply and entranced Westerners join the 1 million inhabitants, a trend that started with well-heeled hippies in the 1960s and has never looked back.