Cool winds off the Mediterranean, fresh seafood up to Italian Riviera standards, yachts in the harbour and shopping for designer delights in the high-end San Stefano area—Alexandria has all this and the cultural cachet culled from its ancient Egyptian past. The Alexandria Library, also known as the Bibliotheca Alexandrina—first built by Ptolemy in the late 3rd century BC and recreated by architect Christophe Kapeller—sums up the majesty of Ptolemy’s creation in a modern salute. More than a library, the Bibliotheca has a manuscript museum, a planetarium and a café with outstanding cappuccino. Next stop: descend into the darkness of the Catacombs of Kom-Ash Shuqqafa, the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt. Shake off the eerie feeling with a good meal. Athineos, on the Corniche, serves mouth-watering fish of the day beneath high ceilings ringed with gold-leaf mouldings. Carnivores’ choice: Santa Lucia, a few blocks inland, is famous for its steak and osso bucco. Top off the evening with dessert on the spacious terrace of the Greek Club overlooking the harbour.