A Sundowner Moment
Sip a tequila sunrise at sunset as the last rays of the southern sun caress wildlife-rich wetlands at the Gazebo, a private dining area where fresh organic produce is barbecued al fresco beside the Río de la Plata shoreline.
We asked Ana Laura Aguiar, Front Office Assistant Manager in charge of Concierges at Four Seasons Resort Carmelo, to gather the savviest sightseeing suggestions she could find—not just her own but also those of other local connoisseurs, including some she works with every day at the Resort. Located on the Uruguayan shore of the Rio de la Plata and just a short trip from Buenos Aires, Carmelo is an ideal place to unwind in a quiet world of cobblestone streets, bicycles and horses, and wineries.
Horsing Around
Saddle up a criollo steed to go horseback riding through the rolling grasslands that surround the Resort’s lakeside golf course. Reward yourself with a glass of chilled Chardonnay, served with herb-encrusted fiambre cold cuts, at La Estancia, or loosen your waistband a notch in anticipation of an authentically excessive asado meatfest.
Whooping It Up
Learn to tell bombachas from boleadoras (clue: one is an item of clothing, the other used for catching livestock) under the guidance of Gustavo Rodriguez, the Resort’s master of horsemanship and resident gaucho, whose way of life harks back to the cattle-herding days of Uruguayan lore.
Journey Into History
Step back to the days of sieges, raids and naval expeditions at Colonia del Sacramento, a former Portuguese enclave, whose wooden drawbridge, cobbled backstreets, elaborate basilicas and stone-built colonial buildings were awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO for their historical value.
One to Take Home
Yerba mate, a bitter green tea served in a carved gourd, is consumed avidly throughout Uruguay. The simplest gourds—roughly the size and shape of a goose egg—are made from seasoned squash skins; the more ornate are carved from wood, fashioned from fine metals or embossed with silver filigree. Guests taking the Resort’s mate introduction class receive a complimentary do-it-yourself kit, which includes mate (gourd), bombilla (straw), and yerba (ground leaves), alternatively, pick out a gourd from Colonia del Sacramento stores Manos del Uruguay or Almacén La Carlota.
Master the Perfect Snack
Join aficionados in debating what makes perfect empanadas, the oven-baked savoury pastries beloved by all Uruguayans and served at the Resort’s Pura Restaurant and at La Estancia, the in-house farm. Does the beef taste best when cubed or ground? Do olives and raisins improve the flavour or merely distract? Should the pastry be baked or fried? Learn, too, the secrets of the repulgue, the intricate pastry fold that identifies each flavour.
Off the Beaten Track
Explore the ghost town of Conchillas, where thousands of workers once quarried the rock and sand used to build Buenos Aires’ port. Learn how David Evans, a shipwrecked Welsh cook, transformed the outpost into a thriving business concern, boasting a luxury hotel and a currency all its own. The hotel, a miniature railway, and the workers’ stone-built dormitories still stand, redolent with ghosts of the past.
Kneading It Enough
Learn to bake a buttery-rich alfajor, South Americans’ favourite cookie, the way it’s made in homes across Uruguay and neighbouring Argentina. Pastry lessons offered at the Resort will see you dress in kitchen whites—you even get a personalised chef’s hat—while our pastry chef explains just why the alfajor’s powdered coconut coating combines perfectly with a luxurious filling of dulce de leche caramel. Take the recipe home as a surprise for loved ones.
Stroll the Vineyards
Explore Uruguay’s little-known wineries, which checker the low hills overlooking the Río de la Plata shoreline. The oldest, Los Cerros de San Juan, has been making Pinot Noir for 150 years and still ages the wine in a century-old warehouse.
Photography courtesy Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, Oberto Gili
